In San Francisco it can be easy to become absorbed in a neighborhood and forget the ocean is right there, at the end of town. For a refresher take a 20-minute drive down Highway 1, past Pacifica and through the new tunnel replacing Devil’s Slide to the coastal hamlet of Montara and La Costanera Restaurant. The Peruvian restaurant has a friendly rustic vibe inside, but outside, at Table 111, there’s an unparalleled view of what might as well be a private beach. This table is a rare find, even for California—sheltered by a glass windbreak, and made plenty warm with an added blanket offered by the staff to stave off any chill. Looking left from the table in late spring the ice plant on a nearby cliff was bright fuschia and to the right high school girls practiced beach volleyball, while a few tourists pulled off the road to snap shots of the waves. A Pisco Sour and three varieties of ceviche went down easily in the seaside setting.